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Old 05-28-2020, 08:48 PM   #1
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I've discovered that all these years,

I've had the problems Ive had with twitching off the occasion shot cause I'd put the gun too far over into my palm. I also do better with the arched mainspring housing in a 1911 than with the flat one. When I decided upon those things, 40 years ago, I could not discover what airsoft has since taught me. With the arched housing, I also cannot use the standard "long" trigger, cause it causes me to push off to the side too often. I knew that such happened with the too thick gold cup trigger in 1976, when trying to draw and hit really fast, on 25m 10" disks. I was shooting the FBI duel against Mike Harries, co-inventer of the plastic break front Snick holster and secretary of the SWPL for many year I beat him to the shot by 1/4 second every time with my gold cup, worn behind the hip in a Sparks #1 AT rig, but I missed by a foot at 9 oclock impact, 3x in a row. When you're working on such hits at 10 ft, trying to average under .70 second, from hands at sides, and a speed rig, on the airsoft timer, you can see stuff like that occurring and fix it right then and there, in your house. if you've got the spare parts. :-) If you cut the operating lug off of the front of a 1911 grip safety, you no longer have to remove and replace the mainspring housing in order to remove and replace the grip safety. That can save a lot of time when you're working on a recalitrant trigger job.

So can using a punch and hammer to create a crescent of 3 punch marks around the back side of the disconnector hole in the frame, and using same to the trigger yoke to stop the up and down movement of the trigger as it slides in the frame. The yoke can be spread open, and polished on the outside, polishing the inside of the trigger yokes mortise in the frame, to stop drag and side to side movement in the frame. On 1-2 1911's, I've seen so much slop in the trigger's front to back movement that I had to drill a hole in the front curve of the yoke and install a rivet to get rid of the slop. You want about 1/8" of movement, not 3/8".before the trigger engages the sear. BEWARE bending back the center leaf of the sear spring, cause it can cause disconnector slop in the rapidfire of the gun. Best to leave it alone and polish the disconnector and sear spring where they engage. ditto where the sear and spring engage. Make certain that the hammer does not "rub" the half cock notch during firing. If you overdo the over-travel screw, you WILL get such rubbing and it swiftly ruins your hammer and sear. Make sure that the sides of your hammer dont contact the inside of the slot in the back of the slide, or on the side of the extractor where it protrudes from the rear of the slide. That contact is major source of twitching at the instant of hammer fall.
 
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:51 PM   #2
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aint it truly amazing how quickly and easily I start interesting new topics. :-) Aint it infuriating that everyone here knows SO much more than me, but wont post anything.?
 
Old 05-29-2020, 06:14 AM   #3
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Yes, but that was 40+ years ago! What have you achieved in the last, 5, 10, 15, 20 years. When's the last time you shot a sanctioned match? When is the next time your going to shoot a match? I'm shooting a match tomorrow with my wife, how about you?
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Old 05-29-2020, 08:19 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by boati View Post
aint it truly amazing how quickly and easily I start interesting new topics. :-) Aint it infuriating that everyone here knows SO much more than me, but wont post anything.?
Yes, amazing. Please see the 'zinc' and 'deadfalls' threads. While you do post a lot, it's largely wrong.
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Old 05-29-2020, 10:49 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by boati View Post
……On 1-2 1911's, I've seen so much slop in the trigger's front to back movement that I had to drill a hole in the front curve of the yoke and install a rivet to get rid of the slop. You want about 1/8" of movement, not 3/8".before the trigger engages the sear...
John — for the love of god, step away from the crack pipe (and the Dremel). A 1911 can not have 3/8” of slop in the front-to-back movement of its trigger. There’s not 3/8” of total length of travel in a 1911 trigger; much less 3/8” of travel slop.

If you want less pre-travel when the trigger is at rest, there is a simple solution. If you want less overtravel after the trigger breaks, there is a simple solution. And because (even though apparently unnoticed by some) the world has continued to spin and progress past the 1970’s, it can even be the SAME solution:


Adjustable tabs on the front to adjust/eliminate pre-travel at the beginning of the trigger stroke, and a set screw to adjust/eliminate over-travel at the end. It can be had with the short shoe shown, a long shoe, a flat shoe, etc. Something for everyone, and a cheap, simple, easy fix. Granted, it takes away the joy of assaulting a fully functional firearm with a Dremel; but that’s okay if we just step back, breathe, and put on our big boy pants.
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:57 PM   #6
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Whenever I hear Dremel tool and handguns in the same sentence I cringe. More damage has been done than any improvement with these little devils.
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Old 06-01-2020, 07:22 AM   #7
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Sigh... and again, a factually incorrect drive-by pontification; and no guts to even follow up in conversation or debate.
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:40 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boati View Post
I've had the problems Ive had with twitching off the occasion shot cause I'd put the gun too far over into my palm. I also do better with the arched mainspring housing in a 1911 than with the flat one. When I decided upon those things, 40 years ago, I could not discover what airsoft has since taught me. With the arched housing, I also cannot use the standard "long" trigger, cause it causes me to push off to the side too often. I knew that such happened with the too thick gold cup trigger in 1976, when trying to draw and hit really fast, on 25m 10" disks. I was shooting the FBI duel against Mike Harries, co-inventer of the plastic break front Snick holster and secretary of the SWPL for many year I beat him to the shot by 1/4 second every time with my gold cup, worn behind the hip in a Sparks #1 AT rig, but I missed by a foot at 9 oclock impact, 3x in a row. When you're working on such hits at 10 ft, trying to average under .70 second, from hands at sides, and a speed rig, on the airsoft timer, you can see stuff like that occurring and fix it right then and there, in your house. if you've got the spare parts. :-) If you cut the operating lug off of the front of a 1911 grip safety, you no longer have to remove and replace the mainspring housing in order to remove and replace the grip safety. That can save a lot of time when you're working on a recalitrant trigger job.

So can using a punch and hammer to create a crescent of 3 punch marks around the back side of the disconnector hole in the frame, and using same to the trigger yoke to stop the up and down movement of the trigger as it slides in the frame. The yoke can be spread open, and polished on the outside, polishing the inside of the trigger yokes mortise in the frame, to stop drag and side to side movement in the frame. On 1-2 1911's, I've seen so much slop in the trigger's front to back movement that I had to drill a hole in the front curve of the yoke and install a rivet to get rid of the slop. You want about 1/8" of movement, not 3/8".before the trigger engages the sear. BEWARE bending back the center leaf of the sear spring, cause it can cause disconnector slop in the rapidfire of the gun. Best to leave it alone and polish the disconnector and sear spring where they engage. ditto where the sear and spring engage. Make certain that the hammer does not "rub" the half cock notch during firing. If you overdo the over-travel screw, you WILL get such rubbing and it swiftly ruins your hammer and sear. Make sure that the sides of your hammer dont contact the inside of the slot in the back of the slide, or on the side of the extractor where it protrudes from the rear of the slide. That contact is major source of twitching at the instant of hammer fall.
have you even held a 1911 or disassembled one? I don't see how you get any of the trigger movement values you are describing.

ETA: see I was beat to the punch.
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:10 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Dorobuta View Post
have you even held a 1911 or disassembled one?...
He has. He was actually there at the forming of ipsc and shot in one world championship; iirc the first one in 1979, but not positive on that. Didn’t win, but he was there.

That’s the basis for the “I’m a world-class shottist” (he used to use that word a lot) belief system that he still maintains. He shot (unsuccessfully) in a championship match when ipsc was in its infancy, with guys who later went on to become famous. So, even though that was 40+ years ago, and even though (because of legal difficulties) he hasn’t been legally able to own a firearm since the 1980’s, and even despite - or maybe because of - his self-admitted drug dependency (trazodone and ambien), he still claims “world class” status because of something he did in the 70’s.

By that logic, I’m still young, fast, and good-looking...
 
Old 06-02-2020, 06:05 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by John in AR View Post
By that logic, I’m still young, fast, and good-looking...
ROFLMAO!!
 
Old 06-02-2020, 08:37 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by John in AR View Post
He has. He was actually there at the forming of ipsc and shot in one world championship; iirc the first one in 1979, but not positive on that...
I was wrong, it was 1977, not 1979, and he was one of nine Americans to be there. He came in 19th out of 25 over all, and last place out of the nine Americans:
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/1...-championship/


And at the Columbia Conference (Columbia Missouri, not Colombia the country) in 1976, he also shot and came in 16th.

Pages 12-13 of the minutes of the meeting:
https://www.krtraining.com/IPSC_1976...ce_Minutes.pdf

His name is 15th out of 16 in the list, but looking at the scores shows his to be the lowest out of everyone listed. Possible score of 300, and according to their standards at the time, a score of 220/300 qualified as 'expert'. Everyone who shot less than 200 was dropped from even the qualifiers list; he shot 201 and was the lowest score to not be dropped. So 44 years ago, he shot 201/300; but because the new organization considered 220/300 (ie, 73%) to be expert, his score was 91% of what was labeled as 'expert' level in that fledgling organization; and that's the basis for still claiming "expert" status till the end of time.

To be fair, he did have a reputation for very fast reflexes (as many of us did 40 years ago); just not for discipline or consistency.

I don't hate the guy, but I don't hate anybody as far as I know. I feel bad for him, as he's obviously so frustrated and bitter at life in general; I've tried for years to get him to realize that the past doesn't necessarily need to define the future, but with no success.
 
Old 06-02-2020, 12:05 PM   #12
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So then, he is either mis-remembering the 1911 specs, or he is making them up. I own 2 1911 pistols, neither one of them has that much slop in the trigger, nor do I see any way to produce that much slop.

I wasn't trying to be a jerk or anything, but that was an incredulous post by all accounts.
 
Old 06-02-2020, 05:04 PM   #13
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Being caught out in lie after lie does not stop or appear to bother Melvin in the least. His long tale of the "Felon Platoon" was called out due to the fact felon's can't possess firearms. It didn't bother him in the least.
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Old 06-02-2020, 06:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry G View Post
Whenever I hear Dremel tool and handguns in the same sentence I cringe. More damage has been done than any improvement with these little devils.
I can believe that, amongst the kind of people that would let YOU hang around. I've taken off the back of 1911 frames to fit a ducktail grip safter, with a 12", 2 horse snag grinder and had a perfect fit. you just have to know when to stop hogging off metal and start polishing instead, that's all. I can understand how that's incomprehensible to your kind. But you aint paying a smith $150 an hour to remove 1/2" of steel with an Arkansas stone. Theres' a time and a place for any tool and the master can do things that lops should not attempt. That's what makes him a master.
 
Old 06-02-2020, 08:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boati View Post
...I've taken off the back of 1911 frames to fit a ducktail grip safter, with a 12", 2 horse snag grinder and had a perfect fit. you just have to know when to stop hogging off metal and start polishing instead, that's all. I can understand how that's incomprehensible to your kind. But you aint paying a smith $150 an hour to remove 1/2" of steel with an Arkansas stone. Theres' a time and a place for any tool and the master can do things that lops should not attempt. That's what makes him a master.
I’m assuming, Your Genius Eminence, that by ‘safter’ you mean ‘safety’.

Serious question - what part of a 1911 frame do you have to remove a half-inch from in order to fit a safety?


And fwiw, a big part of what makes someone a master in any discipline is an eagerness to constantly learn. Not the constant need to stupidly screech “I’m a master, you lames!!!”
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by John in AR View Post
I’m assuming, Your Genius Eminence, that by ‘safter’ you mean ‘safety’.

Serious question - what part of a 1911 frame do you have to remove a half-inch from in order to fit a safety?


And fwiw, a big part of what makes someone a master in any discipline is an eagerness to constantly learn. Not the constant need to stupidly screech “I’m a master, you lames!!!”
That’s a very large frame, skippy, very large...
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