I have bought two guns new a taurus tracker 44mag and taurus judge. In the tracker I had a fail to fire on one round of new Hornady ammo in double action I recocked and fired on the second try on the judge I had some paper 40 year old 410 birdshot and some from mid 90's about 14 years old plastic winchester 7 and half shot and new buck. I fired five rounds of buck and all rounds of the 40 year old stuff but had 3 fail to fire out of the 14 year old stuff recocked fired two but third never would fire. I do not believe it is the guns I get what I believe to be good strikes. I hear a lot of talk about hard primers. I know that my taurus 38 was fired new and after a hundred or so rounds no problems. These all have the transfer bar designs. I read where a couple of clips of the fire pin return spring helps or increase spring pressure with shim if no screws which mine has none on hammer spring. I also hear of a break in period on revolvers which makes since with anything mechanical will smooth out I believe. I have snap caped several times I hear from 500 to 1000 is good and I have noticed smoother action and trigger which could account for trimming the fire pin return spring might be similar to spring firing pin movement break in. While doing this my hand gets more used to pulling trigger so it may also seem easier but with exercise my pulls are stouter and seems hammer strike is getting harder hitting. I hear fast pulls that are not complete seem to cause lighter strikes as the transfer bar is not always well in place with a fast pulling. I am not sure on the judge with the ammo on 410 and its age but on the tracker I have heard some primers are harder on some ammo. I am thinking break in may help regardless of out of the box beliefs I saw where a man was told there was a break in period for taurus revolvers.
I don’t own either of those guns, and I ultimately ended up staying away from revolvers but in general:
Only modify a spring if there is consensus that it fixes a widespread issue which you are experiencing. Funny story, I saw someone deck out an extractor spring so hard that the AR wouldn't chamber the first round without racking the handle all the way back and getting max momentum. If you have to change a spring outside of routine maintenance, have full understanding of the problem and be able to draw the net forces.
If you have to cycle it 500 times to for a break in, that shows manufacturing problems. There is no reason for that other than making things wear down to fit each other. If you are comfortable disassembling the gun, look for very minute uneven edges or burrs or tangible wear. If you can see tangible wear within 1000 rounds of bullets or dry fire that means there are problems with tolerance stacking in manufacture or the design is just outright off. Tool wear happens and you may have a piece made closer to the end of a tool's life, or a few different ones.
If a harder pull on your end results in any change in the function of the hammer, there's an issue. It should break at a certain point only slightly, if ever, changed by many thousands of rounds of wear. This said, you'd be surprised how many "premium" triggers are utter crap in this regard.
Check firing pin protrusion, and send an email to the manufacturer asking if that protrusion is within their acceptable range. If it’s within range, examine the primer depth or change to an entirely new lot of ammo and see how it does.
Check the firing pin channel. It's possible some preservatives, lubricant, or environmental contamination is in there slowing down the firing pin's motion. Air duster is your friend.
I've got 8 Ruger Vaquero's (6x Original/2x New) and have only ever had 1 problem with a transfer bar. One of my original Vaqueros in .44 mag broke its transfer bar at about 20,000 rds downrange. I shoot at least 15-20 Cowboy action matches an I've only had that problem and another problem with a cylinder latch on a new Vaquero.
Only once have I had a problem with a primer strike and that was the problem of the ammo not the gun. I understand that the quality contol of Taurus is quite good these days, I hope you didn't get a leftover from 15-18 years ago when quality control left a bit to be desired.
I've alway's liked Taurus products and any failures to fire with my revolvers M66 .357. M94 and M92 .22 LR have alway's been ammunition related. Very old ammo is alway's questionable and I would look to that before doing anything mechanical to a firearm. (Maybe Military stuff is the exception. I put 200 rds. of 8mm 1948 vintage through a rifle with one mis-fire, A second strike fired it.)
I seem to have good pin strikes and really need to test more to see really how it is performing. I own a springfield 1911 officers model which is the shorter barrel and magazine or the micro compact and I had trouble with the ejections and was said it needed breakin time also but a gunsmith polished feed ramp and throated it and went from ten to 15 failure to eject in a hundred rounds to zero failures. There is something to be said for a good gunsmith once you find one. I have heard also that the shipping oil has reduced a guns ability and should be lessened as in the gun cleaned parts and light reoil of mechanisms. The pin seems smooth and break over of hammer smooth. I think maybe ammo I know brass ammo seems to be good for over a hundred years I am not so sure about my 410 shells I know the ones that did not fire were out in a travel trailer for a while not ideal conditions perhaps over time.
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