|05-04-2016, 01:34 PM||#1|
Joined: May 2014
I showed pat my "no weld", threaded silencer
for the .22. It is sort of long, if it's to be effective on a rifle, like 8" or so, to have some service life. you could, tho, "step down" an adapter for it, and use 1 1/4" OD PVC for the main tube, letting you keep it "only" 6" long. what you'd have to do is spin a short pc of pvc, of the right size, down to fit inside the 1 1/4" stuff, and epoxy and pin it into place, leaving the bit of smaller OD tubing protrude to the rear, and fit it to the PVC whose ID fits the OD of a 3/8" fine thread bolt. 3/32" long, 1/16" roll pins work fine. After you drill 3 holes thru the PVC, and into alternating faces of the hexogonal head of the bolt, you fit the pins, spread them open to be tight fits, with a small, tapered punch. Make such a punch out of a nail, spinning it in the drill and shaping it with a file or Dremel grinder. I used JB weld epoxy, but regular PVC epoxy, with the primer, should do just fine, at least on the PVC to PVC parts. I can't claim it works on the metal, cause I never tried it. JB weld does, tho.
I used a pipe cutter to get a 90 degree end on the PVC, and used a square to get the bolt head properly inserted into the pvc. then I drilled the .235" Id hole thru the 3/4" long fine thread 24TPI bolt, but you COULD h ave a machine shop drill the bolt for you, and then assemble it to the PVC. YOu'd probably have to try it several times, before you got it aligned with the ID holes in the baffles, tho.
Naturally, the above is for shtf, after laws mean nothing, or after you get your fed tax stamp, allowing you to legally make a silencer for yourself. so you pantywaists don't get all in a twist about my posts here regarding cans. Po lil fellas.