beefing up weakest spot in 1911, vs hotammo - Arms Locker
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Old 03-15-2016, 01:26 PM   #1
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beefing up weakest spot in 1911, vs hotammo

the tiny sliver of metal below the MSH mainspring housing takedown pin is a known "blow out" spot for alloy frames and 10mm 1911's. What i did was drill and tap a hole from each side of the frame, into the frame and then go further, blind holes into each side of the MSH. When i screwed a 6x32 setscrew into each hole, the load from firing went onto a much more robust part of the frame. I've used this trick to salvage several "ruined" 1911 frames. and I recommend it as a preventative measure on all alloy 1911 frames or on steel frames that will be shot a lot with hot ammo. Especially so on the ACP's shorter frame.
 
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:05 AM   #2
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Was just looking at my LTWT thinking about doing that.
Started checkering a steel commander for son, 30lpi. That gets old in a hurry, can only work on it a few minutes at a time, eyes an hands get too tired anymore. Three dot sights are on an sighted in. Trigger an ambi done It started life as a Rock Island.
 
Old 03-16-2016, 11:36 AM   #3
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That actually seems pretty sensible. Kind of like the as-vent holes in some rifle designs.
 
 
Old 03-16-2016, 12:01 PM   #4
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This trick restored several of the old cast aluminum AR Sales frame to working order, altho I didn't trust them for use with anything other than the .22 unit. I got the idea from Stanley, big gun shop owner in St louis,( until he caught a bs felony). Arganbright bought a Detonics size cut down 1911 from him, with a MSH that was only 1" long! :-) Stan had simply made a 6 rd mag that looked like it should work and cut the frame off to match! The setscrews held THAT stress, altho bob and I each shot it less than 50 rds. I bought it from Bob and sold it to a friend of mine I'll ask him what became of it.

Last edited by nikto; 03-17-2016 at 11:05 AM.
 
Old 03-17-2016, 11:03 AM   #5
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I forgot to add that the blind holes into the MSH are left tap drill ID and the threads have to be removed from the protruding tips of the setscrews. pita, gotta spin them in the drill, clamped in the vice and very carefully apply a dremel and cutoff disk, on low rpms, and then hold a file on the spinning screw. If i was gonna do very many, i"d get much longer setscrews and chuck up the end of the screw that I was going to cut off! The tendency is to have the screw come out of the drill, due to excessive side pressure as you attempt to remove the threads. but I have no practical experience. Just ask garand about that.
 
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