BE shooting is nothing like as difficult as claimed
sure, delivering a 2600 score, using all 3 calibers is tough, but so is placing in the top 10 at the indy 500. WTF do you expect to shoot top scores on your first few trials? and no, slowfire 50 yds is not the problem, at least, not with the 22. It's very, very easy to shoot 850 out of 900 with the .22, so you've got a great start on one third of the full match.
the rings on the target are fully 1" wide. the 10 ring is 3.5", 9 ring is 5.5, 8 rd in 7.5", 7 ring is 9.5", and so on. If you keep all 10 shots inside the 7 ring, you'll score in the 80's. That just aint that hard to do, even with one hand, with the .22, at least. timed fire, 20 seconds for 5 shots, is a joke, at 25 yds, with a .22. Anyone can learn to fire a perfect 100 pts at that, in a few days or practice. The same target size/rings is used for all three stages and all 3 classes (.22, centerfire and .45, but the black is larger for the 50 yd stages.
Rapidfire, at 25 yds, is not all that tough, either with the .22. Say you get 80 pts on it, clean timed fire, and get 80 pts on slowfire, 260 pts out of 300. the course is run 3x, so you get 780 out of 900 pts.
most guys just shoot their .45 match gun in the centerfire event and of course, also in the .45 event. As long as you dont blow any shots completely outside of the 5 ring, your score will be ok.
unlike coarse, combat shooting, you DO have to be careful about your stance and breathing when you shoot BE. stand sideways to the target, and find the foot width and angles that most naturally aim your arm at the center of the x ring. The gun gets heavy, so if you can't break your first shot (slowfire) in 10 seconds, without forcing yourself to fire, then just lower your arm, rest a bit, and start over.
of course, your pulse means that you can't hold the gun completely steady, but you CAN minimize the "wobble-area", with practice and you CAN learn to move the gun in a consistent pattern on the target. once you get your sights held in the wobble circle, you just keep increasing your trigger effort until the gun "surprises" you with the shot.
you have to have a proper grip on the gun, mostly holding it with ring and big fingers, thumb and pinkie are just along for the ride. You need a consistent grip position and pressure, and the trigger finger must move independently of your grip. The trigger finger must be bent, lying flat across the face of the trigger, with air showing between the side of the gun and the inside of your forefinger. you must press straight back, and not contact the sides of the trigger.
sight alignment is more important than sight picture (on the target). focus on the very top center of your front sight, with the gun zeroed to put the bullets 1.7" high at 50 yds. This way, you can hold at 6 oclock. for a more precise aiming point. however, this also means that you have to adjust your sights for the 25 yd stages. A proper set of adjustable sights runs about $150.
you should have dryfired so much that you can say exactly where your front sight was when the hammer dropped. This is called "calling your shot". you should remember seeing your front sight lift off of the target in recoil. If you cannot, you either had your eyes shut, flinching, or you were focusing on the target, not your front sight. You have to follow-thru, letting the gun recoil upward and then settle it back down onto the target, leisurley (for slowfire stage)
in early training, shoot slowfire only and shoot it at 25 yds. that saves you frustration with shots clean off of the target (you can't learn from it) and saves time walking back and forth to score the target.
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