Glenn Bartley

Monday is my 30th anniversary as a fed, my birthday is imminent, and Christmas is just around the corner. I figure I can use one of these or all three combined to convince my wife I need a reloading set-up. I have wanted to get started for years but am the ultimate procrastinator as well as the penultimate worry wart who has to research everything to death before buying it. For instance it took me about two years to buy my first computer. I am somewhat better now, so I come to you to ask for suggestions as to what I can recommend the wife buy me or that I can buy if she gets me a gift certificate/card.

Here is what I would want. A reloading set-up to reload .32 ACP, 9mm, 38 special, (other pistol calibers), and to reload rifle calibers such as .35 Remington, 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R (reloadable brass cases). Of course I might add other calibers later, in fact that is likely. I am thinking that what I want is a 'progressive' reloading set up (well I think that is what you call it when you can do multiple stages one after the other as you move along. Maybe that is not the right thing for me but maybe it is. You guys tell me.

Right off the bat I would want to reload .35 Remington. I probably have a few hundred once fired brass casings. I would also start loading my own 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R. Would a progressive set-up be best, or would a single stage (I think that is what it is called) be best.

One that is decided or I get the info I need to make the decision, I would also need to know what I need for a set-up to do it all. I do not just want to be able to do it with bare bones junk either. I prefer good quality equipment, with some of the bells and whistles that will make it easier, more reliable and more foolproof to accomplish reloading. I am not saying I want the most expensive stuff out there. Instead what I means is I want quality that works, is reliable, is fairly easy to use and set-up, will last a long time, and is had for a reasonable but not necessarily cheap price.

So I guess what I am looking for is a list of all the components I will need, and the ones you truly think are worth getting by brand, by practicality, by reliability, by whatever. I don't want to be buying new componets for awhile either - so I prefer to start with an advanced beginner or intermediate set-up.

Any takers who want to point me in the right direction with specifics? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
GB

Rich Z

I've only used a single stage press (RCBS Rockcrusher I think is the name), and have been satisfied with it's use. I've looked at progressive presses ever since day one when I started reloading, and have always rejected the idea of getting one because of on particular issue with them. You cannot clean out the primer pocket when using a progressive. Pretty much every failure to fire of a loaded round is from the failure of the primer to ignite. With a progressive press where you cannot clean out the primer pocket, you are already putting a strike against each round in the reliability department. Any remaining burnt powder residue will act as a cushion between the primer anvil and the base of the primer pocket. This is just NOT a good thing, in my book. I want absolutely EVERY round I load to be as reliable as possible.

Now if you aren't quite so particular about the reliability of the rounds you reload, and quantity is a higher priority, then yes, a progressive will likely serve you well.

And yeah, there are a lot of little things you will need to have that you likely won't even know about till you REALLY need them. A stuck case remover, for instance, comes to mind..... Planning on reloading once fired military brass? Then you will need a primer swaging tool for both small and large primers. Then there is a brass trimmer for rifle brass. Then a deburring tool for those trimmed brass cases..... Oh yeah, spare primer decapping pins for the times you accidentally put Berdan primed cases in the press to resize and remove the primer.

Oh, one word of advice. If you are the kind of guy who doesn't pay a whole lot of attention to minor details, reloading is NOT the hobby for you....

jasper

Well Glenn, you ask for it now! Anybody that has or does reload is always full of advice....We have opinions just waitin' to be heard.
That said, my pearls of wisdom include find a few buddys or someone from the range(they're easy to spot picking up all the brass they can) that reload now-
ask if you can hang with them and see if all the detail is what you really want.
As Rich said, you have to pay attention to every step, or things can go badly... This might give you a look at various makes too.

If you still are interested, the choice of progressive or single stage are a matter of personal choice. I use a single for shotgun and progressive for just about everything else. For used brass and mil stuff, my dillon can be used as a single for that part of de-priming. Then I can clean, trim or swage a bunch prior to setting up to load a few hundred at a time.

Have fun checking things out, but if you get the bug, be prepared to spend long hours doing it, it can be addictive.

neolithic hunter

ok reloading 101 again. but thats ok for someone just starting out reloading.

it matters not if your a beginner just getting into reloading or you've been doing it a while and want to step up from a since stage press. lets start from the beginning since it's really the only place to start logically.

the +'s and -'s of a single stage press versus the progressive presses.
first they both have there applications. the main difference between them is that you will one of each eventually if you really get into shooting more often and own weapons that eat quantities of ammo. such as auto rifle or auto pistols. if your loading for pistol or rifle calibers all of the steps remain the same + or - a step. on a single stage press.

1. the first thing you will have to do is lube and size your cases. this will remove the spent primer in the process. as rich states now you an clean the primer pockets. as for primer pocket cleaning in the what seems like 100 yrs but is only 30 yrs i have never once, and this includes pistol ammo i have used in competition, never cleaned the primer pockets. i never felt there was a need for it and the volumes of pistol ammo i and my son and family shoot its adding a step to the process that is not really necessary, in my books.

2. if you do clean the primer pockets this is where it will go in the steps.

3. meanwhile you've sized the case and cleaned it by now so we go to the next operation. that is priming the case i would suggest you get a rcbs hand priming tool only if your using a single stage press. you can prime on the press but it is extremely easy to crush a primer when doing it with the press.so i don't suggest doing it that way.

4.next step is for pistols ammo only, some rifle cartridges require it but most don't. you need to bell the case.

5. next you need to weigh or throw a powder charge into the case you are loading.

6. next you place the case with the powder in it back into the press seat the bullet which at this time should crimp the case mouth into the crimp groove in the bullet. if it's a standard revolver round. if you loading a round for an auto pistol this step is to seat the bullet applying a taper crimp to the case at his time.
now for each of the mentioned steps you have to handle the cases one at a time.

now for a progressive press and to start with i going to suggest that you get a dillion press. you can buy cheaper presses but no one and i mean no one will help you with your press and ammo problems better than dillion precision will. ok now the steps to load on a progressive press. i will use my dillion 650 as a bench mark as it is in my opinion the best progressive press made bar none. and yes there are powered press that make loading on a progressive even easier.

steps in order as follows.

1. lube cases place in case feeder.
2. fill primer tubes.
3. setup the powder measure to throw the charge weight you want.
after these steps are done and they don't really count because there part of the press steup.
now to the reloading step #1. pull the handle till it stops, raise handle till it stops. repeat as necessary till you are out of, bullets, primers or powder, cases, refill the missing component and continue as before. that's it done, with each pull of the handle you complete a live round.

like i said you will eventually own both a progressive press and a single stage press before you are done with reloading. i own and use frequently 3 RCBS rockchucker presses of varying ages as they have a lifetime guarantee, i have 2 dillion square deal B presses, 1 dillion 550, and now 3 dillion 650 presses. had 2 650's but i got number 3 when a friend died. all are used frequently. if i break something on my dillion press, it matters not if it was my fault or not, they send me the repair parts for free.

now the hard part how much money are you willing to spend to save money in the long run. you can buy cheaper loading presses than RCBS or dillion but if you plan on loading for a while and or a number of years, you will get what you pay for. you will eventually buy the better loading equipment anyway. so be smart and get to begin with.

7of7

To date, I have not had any FTF's on any rounds that I have loaded on my progressive. That being said, it doesn't mean it won't happen either.
I have a single stage that I do my sizing on for my large rifles. I only do the loading part on the progressive.
I have a 30 carbine, that I do the full reloading process on the progressive... Never had any problem until recently. Interesting enough, a round wouldn't chamber. I thought it was one of my 2nd or 3rd fired cases. It was long, to the point that it wouldn't chamber... So, I have begun the process of going through all of my 30 carbine, to resize, and trim them all..
So, progressives are nice, however there are some things that they do not do. I am going to end up doing the same process of sizing and trimming all of my brass... which will add some time to my loading, however, I probably won't do it every cycle.
I just am not looking forward to doing all of the thousands of brass I have... I guess it will keep me busy for the winter for a while..
I like the set up I have, RCBS Rock Chucker, and a Dillon RL550B with five quickchange setups for the different cartridges I load. I plan to add a couple more, for .223, and .308... Again, I will probably do all the case prep on my single stage, and then loading on the progressive...
One thing with progressives, you need to find a good ball powder as the extruded stuff just doesn't meter well in them... (Not tightly consistant charge weight)

neolithic hunter

well 7 of 7, i've been using IMR 4895, IMR 3031, and varget along with some other extruded powder for years in my progressives and have no problem throwing charges that only vary 0.1 a grain. without weighing each charge thats about the best you could ask for, whether your using extruded powders or ball powders. the key factor when using extruded powders is grain size only, ball powders will meter better through the measure but the weight variations case to case will be no different. one point to consider though is that ball powders burn dirtier than extruded powders. thats why the military if it has its choice always requires extruded powder in its ammo.

jasper

See what I mean?

7of7

Well, it looks like I will be giving it another try,... I reallllllllly like the 3031... and so does my '06...

Nitro

.

Jasper,

That is an uncommon name. Is it your first name? Just curious; it's my first name.

There are more dogs named Jasper than people. My sister even named her cocker spaniel Jasper. Am I implying that I don't like my name? Afirmative! That's why I go by J.J.

Got off topic, but back on now. I have been asked to conduct a one-day seminar on reloading for a local conservative political organization. Good info here in this thread. I need all the help that I can get. Does anyone have any idea what I can do to stay on-topic for an entire day. I will bring my reloading equipment and components and that will keep me talking for half-a-day, but am a little unsure of what to do/say the rest of the day.

Maybe a video. Any suggestions? I am considering contacting midwayusa.com, Larry Potterfield if he will talk to me, and see if they will loan us some reloading equipment. Also considering contacting Dillon for equipment.

Any and all comments/suggestions are welcome.

Nitro/aka Jasper/aka J.J./aka SASS #36461: "Dirty Jasper".

jasper

Jasper is the handle my grandfather gave me when I was very young and full of , shall we say "spirit"?.....

As to the reloading seminar, that's a toughie......Midway or Dillon are both good sources of info, Dillon has always seemed to be enthusiastic when i have questions on their equipment.

I've always thought reloading was a very focused event, I've not tried to show more than one person at a time when going thru the set-ups. Of course I'm not an instructor or anything either.

Maybe you can spend time on each component of the load, identifying, safety, selecting, etc. Then on the styles and setups.. Advantages of rolling your own, big big cost savings, how good it feels to make something just a bit better. There are a few videos out on the net, not sure if they're any good or not, you'd have to screen them for yourself of course...

Good luck !

neolithic hunter

contact dillion as i'm sure they could and would be willing to help you out.

arebindixie

Glenn,

Reloading is like fishing in regard to products and techniques.

I'd recommend a Lyman T-Mag or similar turret press based upon the facts that you are just beginning to reload and will be loading bottleneck cartridges. A turret is a little quicker than a single stage but operates upon the same principles. The biggest advantage for me is the fact that i can keep two sets of pistol dies or three sets of rifle (or other bottleneck cartridge) dies ready to go in the turret.

I'd strongly recommend learning the basics on a single stage or turret press before moving to a progressive press.

You mentioned the .35 Remington and it is very agreeable with cast bullets. A furnace, some cast iron moulds from RCBS or Lyman (SAECO moulds are really great), a bullet sizer, and some gas checks can be very rewarding and cost effective. Wheel weights are still easy to come buy and provide an excellent source of lead; bar solder provides a good, hard alloy.

Also, buy a good scale. You don't need a digital but a good scale is invaluable to ensure consistent powder charges and bullet weights. NEVER trust a powder measure or dipper without checking it against a scale.

I have been very satisfied with products from Lyman, RCBS, and Forster over the years. Lee single stage presses, dies, and moulds are a good value but not without issues. If you must have a progressive press, Dillon is the way to go.

Lastly, approach MAX loads at least 10 percent less than provided by your data and work up from there. Remember that MAX loads rarely provide optimum, practical performance and primers flattening, cratering, or backing out are not reliable signs of excessive pressure.

cutter

Like the man said, Lee products do have some issues. I have encountered them. Still, they do offer a starter kit of sorts with a single stage press, balance scale, case trimmer, deburring tool, and primer pocket cleaner, and a tool to cut out crimps in the primer pockets on mil brass. It was the setup that I started with. I have since gone to a digital scale as it is easier to read and more precise and my Lee single stage press had a handle break. It was an older model. Lee has corrected the problem with a redesign. I ended up with a RCBS single stage (The venerable Rockchucker) and am very pleased with it. Oh yes, there was a Lee autoprime in the set as well. I do not like to set primers with a press. The autoprime is a little hand press. I like it better because I get a better "feel" on how the primers are seating. If one happens to get turned sideways or there is some problem with the primer pocket, you will know about it before it becomes a problem.

I will eventually replace my Lee progressive press. I inherited it from my Dad. We figure that between us, we have loaded in excess of 1 million rounds on the thing and it is worn out. Lee offers refurb to new condition with new warranty for half the price of a new unit on all their presses so it isn't a terrible thing to buy Lee products. I do agree with the other folks here that for a progressive, Dillion is the way to go.

I have been out of reloading for a while due to time and money constraints, but when I loaded, it was mostly pistol bullets. I shoot a lot of pistol when I shoot but not a lot of rifle ammo. I started reloading in response to the ammo demands of IDPA competition so, within reason, I was after quantity of ammo over quality of each round. Even with the Loadmaster progressive I have, I never had a failure to fire with my reloads and performance was consistant for all rounds for a given set of load data.

Like Rich said, attention to detail is a must in reloading. Unlike many other endeavors, being sloppy at the reloading bench can get you killed and will inevitably get you hurt or your gun destroyed given enough time. I recently saw a really nice Kimber built 1911 come apart like a frag grenade. It was no fault of the weapon. Apparently, the shooter had double charged a round. For my Glock 30, Springfield 1911, and Ruger P97, I have been pleased with the performance of a 230 gr. lead or jacketed round nose bullet with 6.5. of Unique. I have had a few issues with Federal primers (even in new, never fired brass), so I rather like Winchester primers or the more expensive CCI primers. Either works well in this general purpose, multi gun round.

Rich Z

Yeah, I've heard enough of that double charging problem to be concerned about it as being the most likely cause of a catastrophic error. But my methodology in reloading pretty much eliminates it as a probability. I use a case loading block and load the powder charge in all the cases I am working with at a time. Therefore, when I am finished the powder loading step in reloading, it is a simple matter to just glance at all 50 filled cases and anything odd will be immediately apparent. Squib loads can be just as dangerous as double charges, so checking for under charges is just as important as looking for over charges.

arebindixie

I started reloading around 1986 with a kit from Lee that included the Challenger 2000 single stage press. It was so named because it was guaranteed until the year 2000. I still have it and it has not failed yet. I also have a Lee hand press which is nifty and makes a good travel companion.

The Lee Autoprime is my favorite priming tool. It is safe, fast, and inexpensive.

cutter

I had a Lee Classic for my original single stage. I was happy with it. It is just that the handle failed and Lee had already changed the design. Like I said, the poor Loadmaster just got old and decrepit like me.

I just have an abnormal fear (I guess) of priming with a press. The things generate enough torque to seat a bullet without much effort on my part, I expect that they could enable me to have a problem that could lead to a primer detonation and I would not know anything was wrong until the boom. Not so dangerous in a single stage, but potentially lethal in a progressive where you have a powder drop stage set up at the same time.

I use a loading block too. I generally end up dropping 55 - 60 charges to fill a 50 rnd. block. I load 50, then pick 5 - 10 at random and actually weigh the charges. I have had a time or two when I dumped the whole block because I got a charge that I really didn't like. I started doing that when I loaded 250 rnds. of .45 ACP and found out on the firing line that they were not quite squib loads, but would not reliably cycle the slide on my Glock 30. Turns out my scale went sour on me. It called a 4.5 grain drop 6.0 grains. That is when I got my digital. It actually has a check weight. I still do not know what in the world went wrong with the Lee Balance Scale. I have been all over and through it and can't find any problem. It is in perfect working order except for the fact that it does not give me a true weight. I didn't track the problem down to the scale until I aquired a check weight and actually checked it. I didn't know that anything could go wrong like that with them if they would zero out.

DaRkWoLf

I'm personally not so worried with the AD from poor primer seating; I trust the machinery to function properly (possibly for better or for worse in this instance). It's a reasonable concern for sure. As a stand alone priming tool I don't think one can beat the RCBS APS bench priming tool; very efficient if it's set up right. I definitely agree loading blocks are good things; their use prevents catastrophe.

I don't trust scales from reloading companies anymore, nor have I used the grain as a measurement in a while. Ultra-reliable, high precision 3mg or finer digital scales (which actually hold their rating) can be had from lab supply vendors at the same price point as the higher end shooting-sports branded scales.

Pistolero

I use a Dillon progressive press with dual powder measures (large and small) along with multiple fully setup tool heads for all my pistol reloading.

All of my rifle cartridges are loaded on an RCBS Rockchucker press; but, this is because the Rockchucker is the press I started out with more than 35 years ago. If I were starting out today, I'd probably go with either a Redding or Hornady turret press on which I'd, also, use extra fully setup tool heads.

My only caveat? I wouldn't use a fully automatic progressive press like the Dillon XL650. (Which happens to be the one I own.) It's a good press; but, there are many times when a manually-indexed Dillon 550B would better serve my purposes and require far less intense concentration on my part.

By the way, I'll guess that you're going to love reloading! Like computers it's a, 'male thing' that has strong appeal to the masculine personality. (Trust me on this!)

Desperado54

Reload...Reload...Reload.... If you are mechanically inclined and are the type of person that would rather fix it yourself than call a professional... then you can become a proficient reloader.

grumpysfc

I too am going to start reloading. I am about to retire from my 2nd job. My first goal will be to develop a a 75 / 77 grain .223/ 5.56 MM round that my ARs will like. I plan on starting to shoot competitively, Service Rifle matches for start. I see everybody is offering their advice on reloading and I appreciate all the ideas you folks have for and about reloading. I think I will eventually end up reloading 9 MM Parabellum, .45 ACP pistol rounds and .30-06 Springfield, .308 Winchester rifle rounds.

I have already purchased a Hornady Lock-N-Load single stage press and dies, so that aspect is covered. If it goes well, maybe later I will upgrade as I gain experience. I have seen the progressive presses and it looks a little too easy to screw up with one, maybe in the future...

A couple of questions I have for the experienced reloaders, pictures would very helpful: What do you have for a reloading bench layout? What kind of storage area do you use for powder and primers? I have about a 10' X 10' area. I know to keep the primers and powder seperated. I have looked at several bench ideas online. I am always open for more ideas. I even looked at the Cabinet they store the powder in at the Gander Mountain store near me. It wouldn't be too difficult to make in a smaller version. One gentleman, recommended using an old cooler for powder. I already use surplus ammo cans for ammo storage and have several smaller wire shelves systems that are perfect for putting 3 cans per shelf.

Pistolero

I designed my own bench; then I took the plans to a cabinetmaker's shop and got an estimate. Key points? I set the height of the reloading bench at my belt buckle. This way I can either stand to reload or sit on a bar stool that I got a Wal-Mart.

I put an elevated shelf on the rear of the bench top. The shelf is just high enough to: (1) easily work my manual powder measure from, and (2) exactly fit my die and conversion boxes when they are stacked 3 high by 4 wide on each side of the bench. I left an 8" opening in the middle of these two shelves. This allows me to mount a clamp-on florescent light to the rear lip of the bench top.

Underneath the work bench table top I have 3 shelves specifically designed to: (1) store auxiliary equipment (like trimmers) on the top shelf, and (2) powder, primers and bullets on the middle shelf. (3) The bottom shelf is the tallest and is used to store large heavy bulk items. Any of these shelves will hold a minimum weight of (about) 100#'s. The bottom shelf can hold, at least, twice that weight (and often does). The back of the bench is walled. The front of the bench is open; I did not use doors.

Total weight of the empty reloading bench is approximately 80#'s. The whole thing is finished in Almond colored Formica. The width is approximately 6' /long by 2'/6" wide and the bench top is 2.25" thick. I used 3/4" Marine-grade plywood throughout and ran wooden screwed-in shelf supports underneath all of the shelf edges.

The table top are made of 3 layers of glued together 3/4" plywood. The back, side legs, and shelves are made out of glued dual 3/4" layers. Floor mastic was used as glue between the various layers; the rest of the fasteners are screwed-in. No nails were used.

Importantly there is a 2" lip around the entire bench top. This allows me to clamp on and bolt down some of the equipment I don't normally keep on top of the bench. (My trimmer is fastened to an oversized pine board that I can easily C-clamp on and off the bench.)

I have found it convenient to mount the manual press on the left front, and the progressive press on the right front. The powder measure is mounted on top of the rear shelf, just to the left and behind the manual press. My total cost? 13 years ago I paid $575.00 for this, 'furniture-grade' reloading bench that (when the presses are, 'bagged over') really doesn't look out-of-place along the sidewall of our rec room.

I built this bench with my family in mind. Unlike previous years when I enjoyed hiding out in the garage, I changed my mind and now want to spend more time with everybody without having my, 'other hobby' force me to disappear for hours at a time.

Guess I got the idea for this reloading bench from my college days when I used to secret a motorcycle in our dorm room by hiding it underneath a sheet with a few boards and books on top of what, really did, look like shelves.

In fact it was more than a year before the proctor was able to figure out why the hallway often smelled of gasoline fumes! In the interim he must have inspected our room, at least, a dozen times without realizing what he was actually looking at!

Garand

I keep my primers in .50 cal ammo boxes. Small pistol, Large Pistol in one. Small Rifle, Large Rifle in another and kept in the locked walk in closet attached to my reloading room. My propellant is kept in a 3/4" lockable plywood box with brass fittings. I keep my ammo under lock an key after I had a problem with neighbourhood kids that played with my daughters 20 years ago.

Pistolero

OK, Garand, I'm sure you keep all of your primers inside the original paper packaging the way the manufacturer strongly recommends; however, I'm not crazy about the idea of storing primers inside a closed metal container. That just doesn't seem right to me.

Garand

Well in case of fire, they are very easy to pick up and throw through the window! Why does the military choose that method of storing their ammo?

Plus I had a friend who stored his propellant in .50 cans and they survived a house fire intact! Do you keep a propane BBQ?, Spray Paint cans under pressure? Cleaning solutions? I keep about 6,000 primers per can so the NEQ (Net explosive quantity) is low. Yes fire is a downside, but additional security and ease of transportation should be considered also

Glenn Bartley

Finally purchaed a reloading press/kit. I ordered the Hornady kit today.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tnumber=151386

I will order whatever else is needed next moth because I have to spread out the cost and also because I have to figure out exactly what else I need.

All the best,
GB

jasper

Good choice, Hornady makes great die sets....have had much better luck with them than RCBS & Lee

Garand

Remember the most important point, if you remember nothing else, "quality before quantity"! As for presses, I'm a high volume reloader, reloading 14 different calibers or so and my RCBS rock chucker has been plugging away with no problems since 1986. In that time 1 pivot pin broke and RCBS replaced it free.

jasper

Well Glenn? Did you ever get your setup going? What did ya go with for a first caliber and how have ya made out so far?

andy

you start by getting a good loading manual, instead of wasting bandwidth here, because the manual covers everything, plus has the powders, bullet weights and types, etc, along with the velocities, etc. I prefer the lyman, because it gives you loads with cast bullets and with many types of jacketed bullets. Speer, hornady, etc only list the bullets that THEY make for sale.

The single stage press is about 150 rds per hour, if you are really good. Cleaning the primer pockets is baloney, except for benchrest rifles, and then only with brand new cases, using benchrest components, turning the case neck, checking for bullet seating straightness, etc, in a benchrest rifle, fired strictly from the sandbags, by a very accomplished rifleman. Otherwise you will see no benefit from the primer pocket cleaning, and indeed, a primer pocket "uniforming" tool will make more of a difference than will cleaning the pockets. I DO, however, recommend that you keep the finished loads separate from the "big pile", 100 or so in the "small pile", until you can run your finger across the bottom of each rd, feeling for a primer that's not "flush".

I suggest that you look on Ebay for a "new" Lee big progressive, not the handgun only 1000 model, preferably one that is "new in the box" that someone got as a present and is selling. < $200, I'd say. < half of whatever retail is. Lee offers a primer flipper, bullet feeder, case feeder for this model, it loads about 1000 rds per hour.

SciuirseMorrigna

The Lee manual is quite good, as it contains loading information from the individual powder companies, offers a wide variety of bullet styles, and offers many hotter loads than the newer Lyman, and such manuals.

The Dillon 550B is a very good reloader to go with. High upfront cost, but it'll hang in there for you in loading rifle and pistol cartridges.

andy

Sometimes the Dillons can be found on ebay, too. Especially right after Christmas

ironhat

Besides Ebay, try your local Shopper or Penny Saver papers for reloading supplies or even a complete rig. Additionally, you can take out a 'WANTED' ad, frequently for free, asking for reloading equipment. I scored two like that. The one RCBS Rockchucker was a complete set up and only two years old. The other was also an RCBS RC, but there was rust all over the polished steel parts but not the painted ones. I cleaned it up an used rubbing compound to brighten it and lubricated the fittings and pivot points and doubled my money. I've done this with power tools and firearms as well and always had good luck.

andy

so have I. I forgot that this guy is not production oriented. The progressive presses are a lot less likely to be found in this manner.

orlandoave

Since I don't shoot as often as I want to, and I like to make every shot count, I'm not into progressive loaders. I'm happy with my Lee single stage. Reloading is enjoyable to me and I take my time and check each round carefully. I load pistol from 32ACP up to 45ACP.
I also load for my old military rifles, 30-06, 8mm Mauser, 7.5 Swiss and 308. I find MidwayUSA is fast and cheap. Powder and primers I get locally due to the hazard fees.

Unalist

What is the best manual for reloading? I hear Lyman, ABCs of reloading, Sierra and "by the caliber" a lot. If it matters I’m looking at 45, 44, 308, 223 & 12ga. Also I’ve heard reloading 22s is possible but not economical. True?

7of7

I use the Lyman handbook. It gives a very wide variety of powders. I also use Ammoguide.. they have loads submitted by others that are available too. The main thing is to work up a load. I use them as a guide. VihtaVuori has a more interesting burn chart, and I look at it also, as it is arranged to show the relation to other powders.. not just numerically ordered. The burn charts, you shouldn't use for reloading purposes, however, it can help with a powder selection..
Anthony

DaRkWoLf

ABCs of Reloading was my very first reloading reference. I've found significant disparity in the Sierra manual I have and real-life, I don't recall the volume though and the binder-book is ~200 miles away from my present location.

As much as you're not supposed to do it, I run a tweaked and personalized version of QuickLoad, which is usually extremely accurate in my experience. Off the shelf, I'd say its as safe as any manual if you stay a little under what it reads as SAAMI recommended and work up (mostly because there are some seemingly arbitrary variables or averages in some places, and powder lots are not identical).

grumpysfc

As far as I know reloading a .22 Long Rifle is pretty impossible. the primer is made into the rim of the case so there is no way to replace it like a centerfire round.

Garand

Frankly I started reloading with the book loads and once I made sure I was loading safe, quality reloads, I started to experiment with loads that would maximize the performance of the firearm in question.

money30

Monday is my 30th anniversary as a fed, my birthday is imminent, and Christmas is just around the corner. I figure I can use one of these or all three combined to convince my wife I need a reloading set-up. I have wanted to get started for years but am the ultimate procrastinator as well as the penultimate worry wart who has to research everything to death before buying it. For instance it took me about two years to buy my first computer. I am somewhat better now, so I come to you to ask for suggestions as to what I can recommend the wife buy me or that I can buy if she gets me a gift certificate/card.

Here is what I would want. A reloading set-up to reload .32 ACP, 9mm, 38 special, (other pistol calibers), and to reload rifle calibers such as .35 Remington, 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R (reloadable brass cases). Of course I might add other calibers later, in fact that is likely. I am thinking that what I want is a 'progressive' reloading set up (well I think that is what you call it when you can do multiple stages one after the other as you move along. Maybe that is not the right thing for me but maybe it is. You guys tell me.

Right off the bat I would want to reload .35 Remington. I probably have a few hundred once fired brass casings. I would also start loading my own 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R. Would a progressive set-up be best, or would a single stage (I think that is what it is called) be best.

One that is decided or I get the info I need to make the decision, I would also need to know what I need for a set-up to do it all. I do not just want to be able to do it with bare bones junk either. I prefer good quality equipment, with some of the bells and whistles that will make it easier, more reliable and more foolproof to accomplish reloading. I am not saying I want the most expensive stuff out there. Instead what I means is I want quality that works, is reliable, is fairly easy to use and set-up, will last a long time, and is had for a reasonable but not necessarily cheap price.